INGREDIENT CORNER
Eggplant
By Christopher A. Costantino
March 2, 2023
In Italy, it's known as Melanzana, while in England, it's known as Aubergine. Here in America, we call it Eggplant and it is this month's topic of my ingredients discussion. A member of the nightshade family, it is related to the potato and tomato. The nightshades were once thought to be poisonous and therefore were not eaten. However, now it's a hugely popular vegetable in Italy, but in the United States - not so much. I'm sorry - did I say, "vegetable"? In culinary terms, that is correct. In botanical terms, however, it is actually a fruit (specifically, a berry.)
This berry boasts many varieties, ranging in color from rich purple (the most common) to white, length 2-12" and shape oblong to round. In fact, the white varieties actually look like an egg, which explains the name. My personal favorite variety, the Japanese eggplant, is narrow and straight and not as bitter. Originating in India and used by the Chinese and Arabs in the 9th Century, the eggplant was brought to Sicily by the Arabs in the 11th century. It wasn't until the 15th Century that it finally reached Northern Italy. British traders brought it to London from West Africa in the 17th century, calling it "Guinea squash." Requiring warmth and abundant irrigation, they are now grown in The West Indies, Israel and Africa. In the United States, they are grown in Florida, California, Texas, Louisiana and New Jersey. (Yah, I was kind of surprised by that last one also). The US varieties are available year-round, with peak season in August and September.
When shopping for an eggplant, choose a firm, smooth-skinned specimen that is heavy for its size. Avoid soft or brown spots. Store in a cool, dry place and use within a day or two of purchase as it is very perishable and gets more bitter with age. (Sounds like some people I know, but I digress). If longer storage is necessary, place in the refrigerator's vegetable drawer. In order to prepare, there are a myriad of options. Young skin is edible, but older eggplants should be peeled. Also, older ones can benefit from salting for 20 minutes, then rinsing. I don't want this to turn into a science lesson, but salt will pull some of the bitterness out of the flesh. Due to oxidation, cut just before using. Eggplants can be baked, broiled or fried. However, if doing the latter, it is a good idea to coat it in a breading as the sponge-like texture of the eggplant will soak up too much oil.
As far as nutrition, eggplants are a non-starchy vegetable that are low in calories. They are good for balancing diets heavy in protein and starch. One pound has 111 kcalories, 4.3g protein, 0.8g fat, 59mg calcium and 146mg phosphorus.
For this month's recipes, I have an appetizer and a main course. The first, crab and eggplant are combined in a crispy wonton and served with a delicious seafood veloute.
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Crispy Crab/Eggplant Wontons with Seafood Velouté
YIELD: 16 servings (3 wontons per serving)
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WONTONS:
2 shallots - minced
10 medium crimini mushrooms
1 Japanese eggplant, julienned
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ pound lump crabmeat
1 cup heavy cream
6 tablespoons parsley
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 eggs
2 tablespoons water
48 wonton wrappers
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SEAFOOD VELOUTÉ:
2 leeks, coarsely chopped
2 celery ribs, chopped
4 shallots, diced
2 pounds crab shells, crushed
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 cups dry white wine
2 teaspoons tomato paste
2 cups fresh basil
1 teaspoon thyme
1 bay leaf
6 black peppercorns
2 cups fish stock
6 tablespoons brandy
1 cup heavy cream
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MAKE WONTONS: Stem and thinly slice mushrooms. Cook shallots, mushrooms and eggplant in butter over med heat until softened. Add crab and
cream; simmer until thickened, about 5 mins. Add parsley and salt and pepper to taste. Chill for 1 hour. Beat together egg and water. Put 1 wonton on a lightly
floured surface, keeping remaining wrappers covered with plastic. Place a tablespoon of filling in the center. Lightly brush edges with water and top with a
second wonton, pressing down around filling to force out air and seal edges well. Trim excess wrapper with a 3" ravioli cutter. Transfer to a baking pan and cover
while making the rest. Brush the tops with egg wash and bake in 450° oven until crisp and golden brown, about 8 mins.
MAKE VELOUTÉ: Heat oil over med heat; brown crab shells for about 10 mins. Add wine, tomato paste, herbs and peppercorns and simmer, partially covered,
until liquid is reduced to about 1 cup. Add stock and brandy and simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, 5 mins. Strain mixture and add cream. Simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, 3 mins. Season with salt and pepper.
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The second, known as Melanzane Parmigiana in Italy, is my take on the classic Eggplant Parmesan. Some serve this dish like a lasagna. We prefer this version, where the individual servings make a much prettier presentation on the plate. The tiny bit of cream in the sauce can be omitted, if desired. Serve with pasta and/or a delicious vegetable.
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Eggplant Parmesan
YIELD: 4 servings
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2 cups Costantino's Kitchen Tomato/Basil Pasta Sauce
2 medium eggplants
Sea salt
1 cup all-purpose flour
4 large eggs
1½ cups Panko bread crumbs
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
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½ cup cornmeal
¼ cup olive oil
6 slices mozzarella cheese
½ cup heavy cream
Fresh basil, chiffonade
Parmesan cheese
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Put sauce over low heat. Cut eggplants into ¾" slices. Place on a rack over the sink and sprinkle both sides with Sea salt. Let stand 30 minutes. Rinse and pat dry with paper towels. Setup a breading station: 1-flour; 2-beaten egg; 3-bread crumbs mixed with cheese, corn meal, and fennel. Coat the eggplant slices in order and arrange on a plate. Heat a thin layer of oil in a large heavy-bottom skillet over medium to medium-high heat and cook the eggplant 3 to 4 minutes on each side. Remove and drain on a cooling rack; sprinkled with Sea salt. Once all the eggplant is done, transfer the slices to a sheet pan and top each slice with mozzarella cheese. Broil just until cheese has melted. Meanwhile, add cream and fresh basil to the tomato sauce and stir well. Cook five minutes more. Plate the slices, three per plate, and top with sauce. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and serve immediately.
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