INGREDIENT CORNER
Butternut Squash
By Christopher A. Costantino
July 2, 2015
Squash is a quintessential American ingredient. And I mean North and South America - not just the United States. There is evidence of squash being eaten in Mexico as far back as 5500 BC and in South America two thousand years ago.
There are two major categories of squash. Summer squash, the most popular in the United States, have thin, edible skins and soft seeds. They include varieties such as Crookneck, Pattypan, and Zucchini and require short cooking times. The other category, and the one I will be discussing, is the Winter squash. They have hard, thick skins and usually inedible seeds. Their yellow to orange flesh is firmer than summer squash and therefore, requires longer cooking times. The most common varieties are Acorn, Buttercup, Hubbard, Spaghetti, Turban and, our discussion topic this month, Butternut. This particular squash is large and pear shaped (8-12" long, 3-5" at the widest point) and can weigh two to three pounds. The color ranges from camel to yellow.
They are available early fall through winter. Choose a specimen that is heavy for its size, with a hard, deep colored rind free of blemishes and mold. Due to the more durable skin, it can be stored longer than summer squash. It does not require refrigeration and can be stored in a cool, dark place for a month or more. Butternut squash is a good source of iron, riboflavin, vitamins A and C. One pound has 161 kcalories, 5g protein, 1g fat, 71mg calcium and 122mg phosphorus.
The flesh is sweet and orange and can be baked, steamed or simmered, like in a stew. Our first recipe feature this deep orange deliciousness in a risotto with Amaretti cookies and fried sage leaves. Amaretti are amaretto flavored cookies that are usually found crispy (though they are an extra special treat if you can find them soft). They add a delicious sweetness and texture to the risotto that I love.
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Butternut Squash Risotto with Amaretti and Fried Sage Leaves
YIELD: 4 servings
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3 pound butternut squash
6 cups chicken stock
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 shallot, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
1½ cups Carnaroli rice
¼ cup dry white wine
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1 tablespoon rubbed sage
¼ cup parmesan cheese, grated
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
3 Amaretti cookies
6 sage leaves, fried
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PREPARE SQUASH: Preheat oven to 450° F. Halve squash lengthwise and seed, then cut crosswise into 1½" wide slices and season with salt. Roast slices, skin side down, in a shallow baking pan in middle of oven until tender and golden, about 50 minutes. Remove from oven and, once cool enough to handle, peel squash and cut into ½" pieces, discarding
skin.
MAKE RISOTTO: Bring chicken stock to simmer; keep hot. Heat oil in heavy large saucepan over medium heat. Add shallots and garlic; sauté 2 minutes. Add rice, stir 2 more minutes. Add wine; reduce to medium-low and simmer until wine is absorbed, stirring constantly. Add ¾ of chicken stock and rubbed sage. Simmer until rice is just tender and mixture is creamy, adding remaining broth by ¼ cupfuls as needed and stirring often, about 20 minutes. Add squash pieces, then cheese and butter; stir until heated through. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Put on plates and crumble cookies over top and garnish with sage leaves.
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The second is an excellent soup that combines our star with some roasted shallots, maple syrup and other ingredients to make a soup that you'd want to eat year-round.
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Roasted Shallot and Butternut Squash Soup
YIELD: 8 servings
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2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 cups shallot, peeled and halved
4 cloves garlic, peeled
2 large butternut squash, peeled and chopped
4 tablespoons maple syrup
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½ teaspoon allspice, ground
Pinch nutmeg, ground
3 cups vegetable stock
½ cup heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
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Heat butter over medium-low heat. Add shallots and garlic. Cook very slowly, stirring gently, until vegetables are golden brown. Add squash, maple syrup, allspice and nutmeg. Cook slowly, covered until squash begins to soften and all the vegetables are coated in syrup. Add stock and cream and bring to a light simmer. Add thyme and season with salt and pepper. Adjust with more maple syrup, if required. Let cool slightly and puree with stick blender. Return to the pot and check the seasonings once more.
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